Friday, March 30
The weather turned warm and sunny again as we decided to go hiking on one of the 6.5 hills of Plovdiv. There is a large monument on top of one of the larger hills called Alyosha, and that was our destination for the day.
Alyosha is a war memorial that dates from the mid-50s. It was installed by the communist government when Bulgaria was a protectorate of Russia. The monument honors Russian soldiers that were killed during World War II fighting for Bulgaria. One of our previous guides described it as, “Communist Propaganda”. There have been efforts to remove it over the years but it still stands today.
(We Climbed That!)
The elevation from street level is about 350 feet and the trail was a series of very steep stairs carved out of rock with a few landings in between. It was a hard climb. The landings afforded different views of the valley below and we took many pictures. At the top is a large stone paved park and a fountain. On one side is a Bulgarian memorial and on the other side, up a granite staircase, is Alyosha. We were able to walk around the entire perimeter and enjoy a magnificent 360 degree panoramic view of the city and the Thracian Valley. We saw a long and interesting greenway that led from another side of the hill all the way to the river and decided to check it out. We must have walk passed it a number of times but it is likely obscured from the waterfront.
We took another trail down the hill. We wanted to check out the opposite side where there was a park and a memorial to Vasil Levski, a hero from the war of Bulgaria’s liberation from the Ottoman Empire. Unlike the trail we hiked up this one was a wide, gradual sloping road with many switchbacks. It would have afforded a much easier climb than the trail we had taken. The park below reminded us of River Side Park in New York City. It was long and shaded with a walking/bike path along its entire length. We also saw a small outdoor stadium and some playgrounds. It would be a lovely place to spend an afternoon. We went in search of the greenway.
From the top of the hill the greenway looked like a grand boulevard that stretched about a mile in length extending from the base of the hill all the way to the waterfront. At the end was a large stone building that we surmised had been the home of the dictator during the Communist era. The greenway was mostly empty fields and the monument, which had looked so large, was a small building made from large, angular concrete blocks. It houses a communist war memorial that seems to be permanently closed. From what we’ve learned the people in Plovdiv are not as proud of their communist past as the people in Sofia.
The greenway led to the Sports Complex and we found ourselves alongside of the midpoint of the rowing canal. The flowers were in bloom now and it was a sight to see.
Distance walked: 10.4 miles (and 31 flights)
Monday, April 2
We wanted to see a nearby UNESCO site called The Thracian Tomb of Kazanlak, which is about two hours distant by car. The tomb is said to contain beautiful frescos dating from about 500 BC. In order to preserve the frescos UNESCO has closed the building. You can, however, visit an exact, full sized replica that was constructed next door. Because the trip was going to be long and expensive and we weren’t permitted to see the actual tomb and there was nothing else to do in Kazanlak we decided to tour some of the sights closer to Town. We booked a tour to see the Assen’s Fortress and the Bachkovo Monastery, both of which were within a 30 minute drive.
Our trip took us through the town of Asenovgrad. Before the communist era the town was well known for its many bridal shops. During the communist period only one such shop survived. Today the main road is lined with dozens of bridal shops. Asenovgrad is famous for its high quality and fashionable dresses which it produces at bargain prices. People come from all over Europe to purchase their wedding attire there.
Assen’s Fortress has a long and storied history. It’s origins probably date from the Thracian period. It was used as a battlement in the Roman and Byzantine periods but was expanded and fortified during the reign of Tzar Ivan Assen II during the Second Bulgarian Kingdom, which is how it came to its present day name. When the Ottoman’s attacked in the 14th century they destroyed the fortress but left the church standing. All that can be seen of the fortress today are the remains of the walls and several water collection tanks. The Church of the Holy Mother of God dates from the 12th century and it is entirely original except for the dome which was rebuilt after it collapsed from an earthquake in the early part of the 20th century. The church is in remarkably good condition and large portions of the original frescos can still be seen.
(The Church of the Holy Mother of God)
The fortress is situated high on a mountain peek almost 1,000 feet about the surrounding countryside and commands magnificent panoramic views of the valley. Most importantly it is strategically placed to defend the mountain pass leading to/from Greece and Turkey.
(Church on the Left and Remains of the Fortress on the Right)
Our next stop was the Bachkovo Monastery. The name comes from the Town of Bachkovo whose name means “Road Tax” because travelers to/from Greece/Turkey were taxed to use the road. It, along with the fortress, are two of the biggest tourist attractions in the area. There is a daily market on the street that leads to the monastery where you can find typical Bulgarian pottery, crafts and honey.
The Monastery is the oldest in Bulgaria and the second largest. (The largest is the Rila Monastery, which we visited when we were in Sofia.) Only thirteen monks are in residence at the present time. The complex is in a mountainous area but sits near the base of the Rhodope Mountains. The lands were granted to a pair of military commanders in the 11th century who built the monastery shortly afterwards. Outside the main walls we could see large orchards and many bee hives that sit on their property.
The main church is the Church of the Holy Mother of God. The narthex is filled with large scale frescos that appear to have been painted recently. However, they all date from about 1604 and have just recently been cleaned. They are in amazing condition. The same is true for the inside of the church. Our guide explained many of the allegories represented in the works. We also saw the famous magic icon, which is said to have produced many miracles.
(Ceiling of the Narthex)
There is an older church that is still intact but is currently closed to visitors awaiting restoration. Adjacent to the original complex is a newer cloister that was built in the early 1900s. There we found the Church of St Nicholas. The church was closed but the narthex was also covered in impressive frescos.
Before leaving the area we took short hike along the adjacent trails, past an old ossuary, through some picnic areas to a nearby waterfall. The streams were full from the recent rains and water gushed over the cliffs sending spray everywhere. We took many pictures.
(Waterfall Along the Trail)
The entire day had been picturesque. We took a total of 69 pictures. Thank heavens for digital photography. I’m not sure we could have afforded the film.
Distance walked: 3.6 miles