Yet another camera issue. As least this time it’s not the cameras fault! Our camera is equipped with two 40 gigabyte memory cards. It’s possible to configure the camera to write to one and, when it’s full, write to the other but since 40 gigs represents a lot of pictures, we have it configured so that pictures get written to both cards at the same time. It’s a fail safe thing. In case one card dies (it’s rather rare but these cards can fail) the pictures will be safeguarded on the other. This is just one of the many redundancies we have come up with to prevent us from ever losing a photo.
At the end of every day we download the pictures from the camera to our computer which then uploads them to the cloud. Now we have three copies of every photo, one on the camera, one of the computer and one in the cloud. Once the cloud is updated we erase the memory cards and start all over. Even we think two copies should be enough. Besides, someday we’ll run out of space on the memory cards.
Well, in the one and half since we retired this system has worked well. The pictures are actually stored on an computer using an external drive and that drive failed when we were in Budapest. No problem. The pictures were stored in the cloud. We bought a new drive, sync’ed with the cloud and everything was back to normal. Sometimes technology is more than just a pain in the ass; sometimes is actually works exactly the way it’s supposed to. It would be great if we had more days like that.
Enter Greece. Everywhere you go in Greece they still use DSL for Internet access. Never heard of DSL? That’s not surprising. We used it in the United States for just a couple of years until they started rolling out much better technologies. What’s wrong with DSL? A few things. The first is that it’s really not a high speed technology. It can’t come close to the bandwidth that most people get out of their cable modems. Also, it’s normally configured to be asymmetrical which means that you get decent download speeds and really lousy upload speeds. That’s fine for most applications because most people really don’t upload that much data but in our case, when we’re literally uploading hundreds of photographs a day, it’s an issue (even a few hundred photos might not seem like a problem but we take high resolution photos in “raw” format so each photograph is about 25 megs in size; the photos from a typical camera phone are normally just two or three megs in size). Our uploads to the cloud have gotten further and further behind. Right now we’re still waiting for more than 4,000 photos to upload.
The problem came to a head when we made our first visit to the archeological museum in Athens. The camera’s memory cards filled up and we couldn’t take any more pictures. This is the first time this has ever happened in the nine years since we’ve owned this camera. So, what did we do? We took one memory card out, wiped the second one and used it for the ongoing photos. Now we’re saving our photos to only one memory card. One level of redundancy is now gone. Hopefully we won’t live to regret that decision.
A few weeks have passed and now the second card is nearly full. You might think that we could just wipe the first card and continue swapping but it’s not that simple. Apple doesn’t upload photos in the order that you take them. It uploads them in a somewhat random order so it’s nearly impossible to say if it’s truly safe to wipe the the first card. Our solution was to buy a third card. We’ll be carrying it around to use when the second card is completely filled. We’ve considered spending an afternoon at an Internet cafe and using it’s high-speed bandwidth to solve our problem but since we left Athens we’ve been moving around so much that we really don’t have that kind of time.
Maybe we should stop taking so many pictures? That’s never going to happen even if we have to buy a fourth memory card. Since we’ve retired we’ve taken 14,581 photos and we’re taking even more every day. We plan to stop for a week in either London or Paris on our way back to the U.S. in March at which time we’d expect to get better Internet service and, at least this problem, will resolve itself. Hopefully things will go well until then. Wish us luck!
We spent one month in Athens and enjoyed every minute of it. It’s a modern, cosmopolitan city with plenty of museums, shops and restaurants. The food is absolutely fantastic. The city certainly rivals many of the major capitals of Europe.
After the fall of Rome the city was essentially abandoned. The modern city was built starting in the 1830s with the reign of King Otto. So, if you’re interested in the very old or the very new Athens is the place for you.
Here’s our list of must do items for Athens…
Visit the Acropolis and the Museum of the Acropolis. What else needs to be said?!
Find the Hill of Mars where Saint Paul preached to the ancient Athenians.
Take a stroll through the Ancient Agora. It’s the birthplace of modern democracy. Don’t forget to see the Temple of Hephaestus.
See the Roman Agora. The Temple of the Winds is a very special place.
Pay homage at the Temple of Zeus. Hadrian’s Arch is at the south end of the park.
Visit the ancient Panathenaic Stadium. It was used for the first modern Olympic Games in 1896.
You must see The Archeological Museum. It’s one of the world’s premier museums.
Walk through the large park to the southwest of the Acropolis. Go on a scavenger hunt and find the Monument of Philopappos (nearby is the best place to photograph the Acropolis), the Prison of Socrates, the Church of Agios Demetrios Loumbardiaris, the Sanctuary of Zeus, The Pnyx and so much more.
Watch the changing of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier at the Parliament building. It happens every hour.
Go to the Central Market for fresh fish, meats, cheeses, dried fruits and nuts.
Take a break at Foyrnoi. All of the pastries are great and for €1.50 you can get a giant cappuccino and a free bottle of water.
Eat at Ambrosia. They have the best cheese pies.
Try the Arcadia restaurant. It’s not cheap but the food is great and the portions are huge.
Have lukumades at Lukumades. Bring your insulin.
Have a meat platter at Miran Deli. Don’t forget to checkout the deli.
Enjoy some artisanal cheeses at Kostarelos. They serve food too.
Take a cruise and see three islands in one day: Aegina, Hydra and Poros.
Take a day trip to Delphi, home of the most famous Oracle of ancient times.
We were only in Berlin for two weeks. The primary reason for going there was because it was the least expensive way to get from Montenegro to Athens! Still, we love big cities – there’s so much to see and do and we love the incredible diversity. Deborah was pretty sick for most of the time we were there so we didn’t do as much as we normally would but we certainly got around and got a good feel for the place. In short: Berlin is great. We loved our time there and would happily return given the opportunity.
We did, however, find one serious downside: Berliners do not eat ice cream (at least in the winter time). We couldn’t find any ice cream anywhere except for the supermarkets. That’s just not right!!!!
Pubic transportation in Berlin is simple to use, efficient, clean and timely. Google maps has complete information including real-time updates and it’s fun to ride the double-decker busses. Just remember that you’ll pay a different price based on how far you plan to travel.
(Christmas Time at the Sony Center)
Here’s our list of must do items for Berlin…
See The Brandenburg Gate. It’s the last of the old city gates.
Visit Checkpoint Charlie. It’s a tourist center now but it’s an iconic place from history.
Check out one of the many locations where portions of the Berlin Wall are still standing.
Tour Charlottenburg Palace. It’s Germany’s Versailles. You can see the old wing, the new wing, the new pavilion and the gardens in the winter time and there’s even more in the summer time.
Walk down the Unter den Linden. There are many beautiful buildings to see.
Visit the Gemäldegalerie and/or the Altes National Gallery. Two of the best art museums we’ve ever visited. There are also some great museums on Museum Island.
Tour the Reistag Dome. It’s a wonderful experience and it’s free. You can tour the interior when the parliament is not in session. Advance reservations are required for both.
If you love modern art don’t miss the Berggruen Museum. They have over 120 Picassos alone.
Attend a free chamber music concert at the Philharmonie on Tuesdays at 1:00 pm or, if you love great orchestras, see the Berlin Philharmonic in concert.
Stroll through the Großer Tiergarten. There are so many monuments to see.
Climb the Victory Column for some great views and see the exhibits on German monuments. It costs just €3.00.
Visit the Berlin Cathedral. It’s gorgeous inside and out. There’s also the museum, crypt and the viewing platform. Cost is €7.00 per person.
Attend a free organ demo / performance on Thursday or Friday at 1:30 pm at Saint Mary’s. It’s different and interesting.
Have breakfast at Steel Vintage Bikes Café & Restaurant. The food is great and you can rent a bike if you’re so inclined.
Caf-up at Balzac Coffee. It’s the German version of Starbucks. Their Carmel Macchiato is great. The medium is made with two shots!
We spent only a short time in Montenegro – just five days in Budva and two in the capital city of Podgorica. Budva in on the coast and caters to tourists. Podgorica has a very different character. It is a typical Balkan city with a historic district and a modern center.
Here’s our must do list for Budva…
Visit the old town. It’s the main attraction. It’s a medieval city with high walls that backs up to the sea. There are many restaurants, churches and shops there. In season you can walk the walls.
Walk the seaside promenade. You’ll pass some amusement park rides, fast food stands and many restaurants.
Find all four Ballerina statures near the old city.
Enjoy the spectacular views. On one side is the Adriatic and the other you’ll find towering mountains.
Take a dip in the Adriatic at one of the many beaches.
Take a ferry to Sveti Nikola Island. It’s Montenegro’s largest island.
Take a bus to Kotor. See the medieval city. It’s UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Have some great seafood at the Hotel Astoria. Sit on their seaside terrace.
Have a cheap meal at the Pasta Bar. Their delicious sauces are homemade.
Here’s our must do list for Podgorica…
See Ribnica Bridge and Ribnica Fortress. They were built by the Ottomans in the 15th century.
See the Clock Tower. It was built by the Ottomans in the 15th century.
Walk over Millennium Bridge. It’s one of the city’s landmarks.
Stroll through the many public parks and enjoy the statuary.
See the Starodoganjska Mosque. It’s from the 15th century and the only active mosque in the city.
Go shopping on Sloboda Street. It’s one of the trendiest parts of town.
We spent almost two full months in Croatia. During that time we visited Zagreb, Pula, Ravinj (day trip), Zadar, Split, Klis (day trip), Trogir (day trip) and Dubrovnik. We really enjoyed Croatia.
Zagreb, the capital, is a typical European city with museums, theaters and public transportation. We found the prices for food and housing in Zagreb to be very reasonable.
The other cities we visited were mostly along the Adriatic coast. Most of these cities originated in ancient or medieval times and retain a lot of their historic character. They benefit from their proximity to the sea and the moderate climate which makes them prime destinations for tourists and provides an excellent source of fresh fish for their restaurants and markets. Prices for just about everything on the coast are substantially higher than the surrounding regions with Dubrovnik being the most costly.
Here’s our must do list for Split (previous posts included Zagreb, Pula and Zadar)…
Visit Diocletian’s Palace. Most of the old town is built within the confines of the palace.
Walk along the seaside promenade. The harbor area is very beautiful.
See the Temple of Jupiter. It’s also known as the Baptistery of Saint John the Baptist.
Visit Saint Domnius Cathedral. It dates from 305 AD and is one of the oldest churches in the world. Don’t forget to climb the bell tower.
Visit Diocletian’s substructure. It’s where the Dragons were chained up in Game of Thrones.
See the works of Ivan Meštrović. See the statue of Grgur Minski near the old gate and visit his gallery just north of town.
Visit the Museum of Fine Art. Have coffee in their cafe too.
See the Museum of Archeology. They have an impressive collection of coins and inscriptions.
Stroll through Marjan Park. They have walking, biking and hiking trails.
Take a bus to the nearby city of Klis. It appears in Game of Thrones as The Free City of Mereen.
Take a bus to the nearby city of Trogir. See the medieval city and its many attractions.
Shop at the produce market and the fish market for fresh foods at good prices.
Eat cevapi at Kanteen Paulina. It’s the best we ever had.
Enjoy desserts at Luca Ice Cream and Cakes. You won’t be disappointed.
(Diocletian’s Palace)
Here’s our must do list for Dubrovnik…
Walk the Old Town Walls. You get some of the best views of the city (and will have to climb about 30 flights of stairs). Cost is 150 KN / $23.00 per person.
Visit Fort Lovrijenac (Fort Lawrence). You’ll get spectacular views of the old city. It’s the site of the Red Keep in Game of Thrones. Many scenes were filmed there. Cost is 150 KN / $23.00 per person.
See Sponza Palace. See the memorial to the Dubrovnik Defenders. Free of charge.
See the Rector’s Palace. It doubles as the home of the Spice King in GOT.
Walk through the Franciscan Monastery. See the oldest pharmacy and stroll through the cloister. Free of charge.
Visit the Dominican Monastery. See their collection of medieval and Renaissance art and religious artifacts. Cost is 30 KN / $4.75 per person.
Visit the many churches including the Cathedral and the Church of Saint Blaise. Climb the Jesuit Staircase to Saint Ignatius Loyola. It’s where Cersei did her Walk of Shame in GOT.
Eat at Taverna Arsenal. The food is great and they have an excellent Krema Schnit. It’s not cheap but if you go back a second time you may get a discount.
We spent a little over a week in Bosnia and Herzegovina and split our time between the cities of Mostar and Sarajevo. The country was under the rule of the Ottoman Empire for over 400 years and the character of the cities still reflect their influence.
The old town of Mostar is rather small and can easily be seen in a day. There’s a huge number of mosques which seem to give it an exotic air. The main attraction is Stari Most (Old Bridge) which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The town suffered terribly during the war of independence in the 1990s and has not yet fully recovered. Still, it’s a really interesting place and definitely worth a visit.
Here’s our must do list for Mostar…
Walk the Stari Most. The Old Bridge was the source of wealth during the Middle Ages as travelers had to pay a tax to cross.
See the Crooked Bridge. It’s a smaller version of Stari Most and was created as a proof of concept.
Visit the Koski Mehmed Paša Mosque. For a great view of the area climb the minaret (they charge 3 KM / $1.75 per person).
Wander around Spanish Square. See Sniper Tower and other buildings that were bombed during the war.
Enjoy the shops in the old town. They sell all sorts of local handmade crafts.
Have Bosnian Coffee at Stari Grad cafe. They serve it with Turkish Delight.
Have pastries at Aldi II. Try the Hurmasice, it’s a local favorite.
Go to Šadrvan or Hindin Han and have Cevapi or Plescavita.
(Stari Most)
Sarajevo was much more varied than we expected. There are three distinct parts of the city. There’s the old Ottoman/Turkish section, the Austro-Hungarian section and the modern section. We tend to gravitate towards anything Turkish and so spent most of our time in that part of town.
The town was heavily damaged during the war of independence in the 1990s but most everything has been rebuilt and restored. It was interesting to relive one of the most pivotal events in history: the assassination of the Archduke Ferdinand of Austria. We were interested in seeing the village from the 1984 Olympics but apparently there is nothing worth seeing anymore.
It should be noted that prices in Bosnia are very reasonable compared to Croatia. You money goes a lot further.
Here’s our must do list for Sarajevo…
See Latin Bridge / The Assassination Museum. Learn about the assassination of the Archduke Ferdinand.
Visit Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque. It dates from 1531 and is one of the largest in Bosnia.
Gaze upon the Clock Tower. It’s the only lunar clock tower in the world.
Visit the Sarajevo Cathedral. It is part of the Austro-Hungarian part of town.
Search for Sarajevo Roses. Bomb scars from the war of independence that have been filled in with red resin.
Climb the Eastern hills and see the White Bastion and the Yellow Fortress. You’ll get to see some residential neighborhoods and enjoy fantastic views of the valley.
Trek to the National Museum and see the Sarajevo Haggadah from 1350. It can only be seen on Tuesdays and Thursdays.
Tour the Town Hall. It’s a beautiful building. There is a fee.
Eat Turkish Halva at Carigrad. It’s made with butter and molasses and has the consistency of fudge.
Have Bosnian Coffee at Caffe Bar Sebilj. Be sure to dip your sugar cube in the coffee, take a small bite and drink with the sugar in your mouth.
Eat Burek or Zeljanica at Buregdžinica Bosna. It’s the best we’ve ever had.
We really enjoyed our stays in both Pula and Zadar. They are in distinctly different regions of Croatia and have a very different character. Pula is in Istria which has a very Venetian character. We found a large number of interesting ancient Roman sites to visit. Zadar is part of the Dalmatian Coast. It has more of a Mediterranean character with the beautiful crystal clear blue waters of the Adriatic. When compared to Zagreb, the capital city, expenses in these two cities are much higher. This pertains not just to the restaurants, where you can easily pay twice what you would in Zagreb, but also to lodgings and grocery stores. In spite of the fact that these are tourist destinations very few shops/restaurants/museums accept credit cards. That’s unheard of in our experience.
Here’s our must do list for Pula…
Tour the Roman Amphitheater (Arena). The sixth largest in the world.
See Temple of Augustus. It dates from the first century BC.
Visit Pula Aquarium. A wonderful aquarium set in a 19th century fortress.
See The Arch of the Sergii. One of the original gates to the city.
Find the Roman Floor Mosaic. It’s in the back of a parking lot.
Explore the Small Roman Theater. There’s no fee to see it.
Visit the Castle. See the Maritime Museum.
Visit the Church/Monastery of Saint Francis. Visit the lovely cloister.
See the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary.
Watch the Lighting Giants. Visit the shipyard at night.
Do a day trip to Ravinj. It’s almost like going to Venice.
Have coffee with James Joyce at Uliks. He taught English at that location for a year.
Go to the market. Get fresh produce and fish. The prices are reasonable.
Enjoy some truffles. They’re a speciality of the area.
(Pula Amphitheater)
Here’s our must do list for Zadar…
Hear the Sea Organ. It’s a great place to watch the boats too.
Visit Saint Donatus’ Church. It’s the oldest church in Croatia and is near the old Roman Forum.
Visit the Cathedral of Saint Anastasia. You can climb the bell tower.
See Saint Simeon’s Church. See the UNESCO protected chest.
Visit the Museum of Religious Art. It’s housed in a Benedictine Convent.
Walk the perimeter of the Old Town. See the ancient walls and gates.
Have a glass of Maraschino Liqueur. It’s made with local Maraska cherries in Zadar.
Since we arrived in Europe in November of 2017 we have lived in 16 different cities in as many apartments.Many people ask us how we find our apartments and if we are comfortable in them.They are also curious about what the apartments look like and what kind of features they have.This should answer those questions.
We found most of our apartments on Airbnb.We have also used HomeAway for a few, SabbaticalHomes for one and Booking.com for one. Unlike most sites SabbaticalHomes doesn’t support the use of credit cards. We’ve found trying to wire money or use PayPal inconvenient and expensive.Airbnb tends to have more choices with better prices.
The question most frequently asked is, “Are the apartments clean?”The answer is yes.So far we have been very lucky.The bathrooms and kitchens have been very clean.We always do a check for bedbugs before unpacking, as well.I always do an initial clean of the dishes, glasses, pots, pans and utensils before we use them.Sometimes they are not always one hundred percent as clean as I would like.People seem to forget to clean the bottom of plates, pans, etc. and I prefer them to be clean when I stack them.😊. Sometimes the dish sponge provided looks a little dirty so we just bring our own now. Sponges aren’t heavy to pack and I like a nice, clean sponge.We leave the new sponge as a parting gift.The websites ask you to review the apartments when you leave and most of our hosts really care about getting positive feedback.(The hosts get to review us and those reviews appear on our profile with the website.So far we have had stellar reviews.We are very goal oriented.😉)
We choose our apartments based on location, price and amenities.We like to be in the center of town or close to the Old Town/tourist area.The price of the apartment is related to location so we have, on occasion, had to take an apartment slightly farther away from our desired location in order to stay on budget.Our minimum requirements are a working kitchen, hot water, a washing machine and WiFi.
Most of our apartments have been one bedroom apartments.To stay on budget we took a studio apartment in Dresden, Germany and Zadar, Croatia.We were only there for a short time and both were very spacious so it wasn’t uncomfortable.(Germany, in particular, is rather more expensive than the other places we have visited on this trip.)We had a lovely two bedroom apartment in Sofia, Brasov, Zagreb and Pula.
We try to avoid buildings with lots of stairs to climb. Many of the older buildings don’t have elevators so on at least six occasions we’ve had to climb stairs.The worst climb was our apartment in Prague.We were on the third floor (fourth floor for you Americans) and there were 100 stairs!Arriving and departing with our suitcases was the worst part of that stay.We did have to climb four flights of stairs in Kraków, Brasov and Zagreb but there were fewer stairs.It didn’t seem as challenging.
The hosts provide most everything we need in the kitchen.That includes dishes, glasses, utensils, pots, pans, coffee maker, microwave and dish towels.Several apartments did not have a vegetable peeler or a corkscrew.We purchased inexpensive ones and carry them with us.I guess we consider them essential.(We had trouble finding Ziploc bags in Rome and Bulgaria so when we found them in Budapest we bought quite a few and carry them with us, too.)
We have had several small kitchens in our NYC apartments but most of the European ones are even smaller.They use space really well and fit in as many appliances as possible.However, that usually means there is very little counter space and the sinks are very small and shallow.You can easily get a shower by turning the kitchen water on with too much pressure.It is best to make slow, deliberate movements in a tiny kitchen to avoid spilling or burning something.
(Compact Kitchen)
The refrigerators are usually small for the same space consideration.Some have been like dorm fridges in the US.We did have a nice big refrigerator in our Budapest apartment.We usually shop for groceries every other day so we really haven’t had many issues.
We have had electric stoves in most places.We have found that the stoves in Croatia are gas, so far.One of them had a propane bottle under the sink.They don’t have automatic ignition so you have to light the burners each time with a lighter.All the stoves have worked very well except for the hot plate in Kraków.That was difficult to regulate. The whole device, not just the burner, got very hot.
A few places have had wet rooms for bathrooms (the whole room is a shower with a drain in the floor).You have to get use to it but it isn’t too bad.You just have to dry the room after you shower unless you want to sit on a wet toilet seat. Several other places have had showers and/or tubs with just a hand held shower head.We prefer a shower head that can be attached to the wall high enough to stand under.
Most of the apartments have a hot water tank somewhere in the apartment.We discovered in Rome that you have to be very sure where the switch is for the tank or you could accidentally turn it off and end up with no hot water.Many of the tanks are directly over the bathtub.They are often low and take up a lot of space.This makes the usable showering space even less.Again, it is better to move slowly to avoid bumping your head or hands.It is also a little disconcerting to see the electrical wires to the heater over the bathtub.So far so good but I don’t think that would be up to code in the US.
(Shower with Water Heater)
In addition to washers some of our apartments have also had dryers.This is a great luxury.The apartments in Sofia and Budapest had combination washer/dryer.The apartment in Dresden had a separate washer and dryer but they were in the basement of the building. There usually aren’t any words on the controls and the symbols used by every manufacturer are a little different but over time we’ve learned what they mean. A few hosts have left instructions for us and that was greatly appreciated.
The hosts usually provide laundry detergent, however, it is always heavily scented.Marc is particularly sensitive to scented products so we buy our own whenever possible.We have found it difficult to find unscented products in the areas of Eastern Europe we have visited.We finally found a product in a DM store.(DM is a German company with stores in every city we have visited in Eastern Europe so far.They are similar to a Walgreens or CVS in the US.)The detergent is DM’s own brand.
(Arf Brand Cleaner)
Another great luxury is a dishwasher.We had a dishwasher in our apartment in Sofia, Budapest, Prague, Warsaw and Brasov.We usually eat breakfast and dinner in the apartment so it is very nice to have this.Again, the hosts usually provide the detergent.They also provide other cleaning products like dishwashing liquid, bathroom cleaners and kitchen cleaners.We are not required to clean but it is nice to have these products so we can clean when we like. Our apartment in Prague actually came with a free cleaning service! Most apartments also have vacuum cleaners.Cleaning products have interesting names and descriptions in Eastern Europe.Mr. Clean is called Mr. Proper here.
(Mr/Meister Proper)
All the apartments we have rented have had some kind of TV service except the apartment in Dresden where there was no TV.They have either cable or satellite providers.We don’t watch TV unless there are programs in English.Most places have had at least one or two channels with English programming.The programs range from old movies and TV shows from the 70s to programs from a season ago from American TV to many shows from BBC.We haven’t gotten any recent TV shows from the US.The apartments in Budapest and Prague had Netflix.
Many of the buildings in which our apartments were located looked somewhat rundown.There were places with darkened hallways, damaged plaster on the walls and suspicious wires hanging down.Many of them could use a coat of paint but we learned not to judge a book by its cover.The apartments were usually beautifully renovated, comfortable and safe.So far we have never had a problem with safety or bugs or mice.
A number of our places had very nice views either from the apartment or from the balcony.The best ones were in Brasov with a view of Tampa Mountain, Zagreb with a view of the Cathedral and Belgrade with a view of the Clock Tower in Kalemegdan Park.
(Zagreb Cathedral)
Several people have asked us what our favorite apartment has been.I think our favorite apartment was in Budapest.It was in a great location, just a few blocks from the Danube, with a supermarket and great coffee shop right next door.It had an elevator that wasn’t scary to use, a dishwasher, a washer/dryer, satellite TV, a free Netflix account, a comfortable sofa, a shower head on the wall and even a smartphone for our use.Even though it was a one bedroom there was plenty of room for us.Unfortunately, we were their last guests.They sold the apartment.☹️
We have found a distinct difference between apartments with hosts who rent their apartments as a business as opposed to people who occasionally rent their homes when they are away. In the former case the apartments are setup for efficient use of space and have little or no clutter to get in the way. These people count on getting good reviews to further their business and so often go the extra mile to make you feel comfortable.
So far we have had great luck with our accommodations. On this trip we have traveled mostly in Eastern Europe and we hope these trends continue as we travel to other parts of the world.
Normally we wait until we leave a country to do a wrap up but since we’re going to be visiting a lot of cities in Croatia over a two month period we decided that we’d do one for each city. Here’s our list for things to do in Zagreb…
The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. A gorgeous Gothic style cathedral.
Saint Mark’s Church. It has a beautiful roof.
The Archeological Museum. They have the oldest Etruscan Mummy.
The Croatian Museum of Naive Art. It’s different and very interesting.
Visit The National Theater Building. It’s absolutely gorgeous. If they’re doing Turandot run away as fast as you can!
Stroll down Tkalcicvea Street. You’ll find many ethnic restaurants and it’s the heart of Zagreb’s nightlife.
Dolac Market. You’ll find fresh vegetables, fish and cheeses.
Have the salty cheese Strukli at La Struk.
Have coffee or afternoon tea at Esplanade 1925. It’s where passengers on the Orient Express went.
Have the blueberry and white chocolate pancakes at Kava Tava.
Drink the best coffee in Town at Eli’s Cafe.
Eat Čevapi at either Batak or Čevapi u Somunu (or both).
Take a day trip to Slovenia. See Ljubljana and Bled.
From what we’ve seen there are at least two different Romanias. One is in Wallachia, which includes Bucharest, and the other is Transylvania (Moldavia is another large province that may also have a different character but we didn’t go there).
It’s sad to say but Bucharest seems to resemble every American’s picture of what Eastern Europe was like under the Soviet occupation. The exterior of the buildings are not well kept, the neighborhoods do not seem to be prosperous and there is a general feeling of poverty. You can find coffee shops in most areas but there are large tracts where we couldn’t find any restaurants. The very touristy Old Town area is rather small and not as charming as you might expect. Many of the older buildings are gone; they were destroyed by the Communists and the Earthquakes of the 20th century. It’s hard to believe but we couldn’t even find quaint / cheap places to eat near the University.
Still, if you make an effort, you can find some fun things to see and do and most people speak English (if you speak Italian you should be able to get by nicely). Here’s our must do list for the city…
The Palace of Parliament.
The Spring Palace (Ceausescu’s House).
The National Museum of Art (it’s free the first Wednesday of every month).
The Zambaccian Museum (it’s free the first Wednesday of every month).
The Village Museum.
The Romanian Athenaeum. It’s the home of the Enescu Philharmonic and is a magnificent building.
Eat at Energeia. It’s a little more expensive than most but the food was great.
Have Brunch at Diani 4 and try their fancy coffee drinks.
For a quick bite go to Latin Pizza. It was the best pizza that we’ve had in a while.
Visit Peles Castle. It’s a day trip from Bucharest and worth wrestling with the disorganization and the crowds. Cash only!
Transylvania has a completely different character – it’s a mountainous region with babbling brooks and hilltop fortresses. Whereas Wallachia was under the Ottoman rule for many years Transylvania was under the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Even today a part of the population still speak Hungarian and German. We found the region to be utterly charming. Culturally it reminded us a lot of our time in Budapest.
Here’s our must do list for the region…
Go to Brasov. It’s the largest city in the region and ideally located for making day trips to other sites.
Do the self guided “Walking Through Old Brasov” tour. You’ll see all of the remaining city walls, towers and bastions.
The Black Church. The entrance fee is 10 Lei but you can see the church and attend an organ concert for 12 Lei.
See The Basilica of Saint Nicolas in the Shei Quarter. Don’t forget to visit the First Romanian School / museum which is right next door.
Climb Tampa Mountain (or take the cable car) for the best views of the city.
Have coffee at Cafeteca and enjoy some marshmallows.
Eat a “Chocolate Blob” aka Grille Joffre at La Vatra Ardealului. They have good coffee, too.
Eat at Dei Fratti. It’s the best Italian food we’ve had since we left Italy.
For traditional Romanian dishes eat at Casa Românească.
For some good home cooked style food eat at Brasovia. Cash only.
The region is replete with historic towns and churches – many of which are listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites…
Harman’s Fortified Church is a short bus ride from Brasov and is a must see.
Rasnov Fortress is also a short bus ride from Brasov and is a must see.
Go to Bran Castle. No, it was never Dracula’s home but he was imprisoned there for a few days.
Take a trip to the old town of Sighisoara.
Explore Sibiu. It was once the largest town in Transylvania.
