Retired for One Year

Saturday, September 1

We haven’t written a blog entry in a few days because, in spite of the fact that we’ve been in Brasov for a few weeks, we’re still so busy.  We’ve found so many interesting things to see and do here.  We’ll only be in Brasov for one more week.  We hope we have time to see everything before we move on to Belgrade, Serbia.  We’ll try to catch up on our blogging this weekend.

In spite of all that we thought it would be fun to mention that’s it’s been exactly one year since we retired.  It’s unbelievable how fast time flies.  For the first two months we traveled around the United States and said our goodbyes to family and friends.  After that we flew to Rome and have been in Europe ever since.  In that time we’ve been to seven different countries and visited 29 cities.  It’s been quite a ride.  Living aboard changes you.  Here’s the proof…

(9/2/2017 at the US Open in Queens, New York)

(8/29/2018 at Peles Castle in Sinaia, Romania)

And the fun has just begun…

 

So Long Poland

One of the nicest things about Poland is that several museums are free to visit every day.  If you stay for a full week you can see just about everything at little or no cost.

A Few Thoughts on Krakow

If you’re only going to visit one city in Poland then Krakow should be your choice.  It has original buildings from the early Middle Ages, lots of museums, plenty of fun places to hang out and great food.  Best of all, it’s very affordable.

Here’s our must do list for Krakow…

  • Take a free walking tour from Walkative tours.  They have several free tours to choose from and some paid ones as well.
  • Wawel Castle.  Even if you don’t wish to pay to see the museums the Cathedral and the grounds are open to the public.  It’s a nice place to spend an afternoon.  Don’t miss the fire breathing dragon sculpture!
  • Old Town Square.  There’s so much to see from the old Cloth Market to the many churches.  It’s a vibrant area with lots of nice shops and restaurants.
  • The Kazimierz (or Jewish) District.  This is a fun and trendy neighborhood with plenty of interesting restaurants to explore.  Of course there’s a lot of history there too.
  • Visit Ghetto Hero’s Square / The Pharmacy Under the Eagle for an uplifting take on the atrocities from World War II.
  • Visit Jagiellonian University – the first university in Poland.  See the clock in the courtyard and see some of scientific instruments used by Copernicus.
  • Visit Father Bernatka’s Footbridge.  It’s has fun kinetic sculptures installed in the rigging.
  • Eat at Placki Ziemniaczane and don’t forget to try their soft ice cream and donuts.
  • Have pierogi at Pierogowy Raj.  They’re made to order and absolutely delicious.
  • Eat a Zapiekanka at Zapiekanki Królewskie.  They’re the best in Town.
  • If you’re interested in side trips try The Wieliczka Salt Mine or Auschwitz-Birkenau.

A Few Thoughts on Warsaw

The city is spread out over a much larger area than we expected.  We walked everywhere but you might do yourself a favor and try the busses.  They run just about everywhere.  The city was virtually destroyed in World War II so you won’t see anything that’s truly old but the buildings have been rebuilt and look much the same as they did before.

Here’s our must do list for Warsaw…

  • Take a free walking tour from Walkative tours.  They have several free tours to choose from and some paid ones as well.
  • See Old Town.  There are many large squares with many things to see and do.
  • Walk on the Royal Road.  It extends from Warsaw all the way to Krakow.
  • See the Royal Castle.  Take the Castle Tour which includes two stunning Rembrandts.
  • Visit Saint Anne’s Church.  It’s beautifully decorated in Baroque style.  Paid concerts on it’s magnificent organ are given almost daily.
  • Visit the Basilica of Saint John the Baptist.  It is a large Gothic church and the place where the royal family worshipped.  There are many famous burials.
  • Visit the National Museum.  It has a wonderful collection of old master’s paintings.
  • Visit the zoo in the Praga district.  It’s the one from the movie The Zookeeper’s Wife.
  • Eat donuts at Cukiernia Pawlowicz.  They’re made right on the spot and they’re fresh and delicious.
  • Eat at Zapiecek Restaurant.  There are several spread throughout the city.  They have the best potato pancakes.

auf Wiedersehen Dresden

A Few Thoughts on Dresden

Even though the city was virtually destroyed during World War II the Old Town has been reconstructed to appear as it did centuries ago.  It’s a charming area.  The city’s history is very interesting and the number and breadth of the museums is simply overwhelming.  We were surprised at how small the city was.  It would be possible to see all of the major sights in a single week.

Here’s our must do list for Dresden…

  • If you’re going to see just a few museums we strongly recommend the Historic Green Vault and the Alte Meister collection.  If you have more time see the Porcelain Collection.
  • You should see the Frauenkirche.  Try climbing the bell tower for great views of the city.
  • Take a tour of the Transparent Volkswagen Factory.  It’s at the edge of Grosse Garten.  You won’t see anything like it anywhere else.
  • Take in an opera at the Semperoper.  The tickets are inexpensive and the productions are great.
  • Go to Neustadt and find the Kunsthofpassage.  It’s off the beaten track but there’s a lot of nice shops and restaurants in the neighborhood.
  • Make sure to try the Apfelküchen.  The best we found was at Schwerdtner’s Bakery in Neustadt.
  • If you’re interested in a side trip consider going to Meissen.  You can go by train or boat.  Visit the porcelain factory or go to Albrechtsburg Castle.

(View of Old Town)

 

Ahoj Prague

A Few Thoughts on Prague

Ahoj is Czech for “So Long”.  It’s fair to say that we tried to learn some of the local languages in most places we have been but in Prague we utterly failed.  Fortunately everyone we encountered spoke English very well.

Prague is a beautiful city.  Because it was virtually untouched by bombs in the Second World War the buildings are all in original condition.  If you like authentic Gothic architecture then this is the place for you.  The food is mostly in the heavy Bavarian style with lots of meats, gravies and dumplings but we found it to be excellent.  Everywhere we went, from street musicians to classical performances, the music was of the highest quality.  Prague’s reputation as a musical city is well deserved.

Here’s our must do list for Prague…

  • Prague Castle.  Our guide told us it wasn’t worth paying the fee to enter the buildings but we would definitely disagree.  See the changing of the guard at noon everyday.
  • Saint Vitus Cathedral.  It’s iconic and must be seen.
  • Everything Mucha.  He’s everywhere in Prague.  See the Mucha Museum, the Mucha Exhibition in Old Town Square and the Slav Epic (a portion of it at least will be in Prague starting July 2018).  If you’re adventurous go to Brno and see the Mucha Exhibit there too.
  • Municipal House.  It’s a gorgeous Art Nouveau building with concert halls, salons and more.  Mucha decorated one of the rooms.  Municipal House can only be seen by guided tour.
  • Vyšehrad Castle.  It’s a beautiful complex with many things to see and do.
  • The National Memorial to the Heros of Heydrich.  An informative and moving memorial to the Czech underground in World War II.
  • See the Jewish Quarter.  The Jewish museum is a series of buildings all with interesting exhibits including the oldest active synagogue in Europe.
  • The Charles Bridge.  Cross the iconic bridge and see the views, the statues and most of all the musicians and trinket sellers.  It’s a fun experience.
  • Old Town.  See the Old Town Square, visit the Church of Our Lady Before Tyn, tour the Old Town Hall and climb the Clock Tower.  There’s even more to see and do in the area.
  • Have hot chocolate at Choco Café in district 1.  European hot chocolate is unlike anything you can get in the U.S. and it’s delicious.
  • If you have time visit the zoo or tour the city of Kutna Hora.  Both are worthwhile.
  • Explore Petrin Hill.  Climb the tower, see the gardens and visit the Strahov Monastery.
  • Museums that we particularly enjoyed: The Schwartzenberg Palace, the Sternberg Palace and the Convent of Saint Agnes.

Of course there are many more things to see and explore.  We hope you’ll love Prague as much as we did.

(The View from Petrin Tower)

A Few Thoughts on Bulgaria

Well, we’ve now spent three months in Bulgaria – six weeks in София (Sofia), three weeks in Пловдив (Plovdiv), two weeks in Ъургас (Burgas) and two weeks in Ъарна (Varna).  We can actually read some of this now.  We managed to form a few opinions along the way…

Bulgarians are a very warm and friendly people but their ways are somewhat different from what we’re used to in the U.S.  They generally have a rather dour look on their faces and rarely smile.  If you’re walking down the street they will never make eye contact – no little head nods – never any smalltalk.  At the supermarket it’s normal to checkout without exchanging small pleasantries like “please” and “thank you” with the cashier.  None of this should put you off. Bulgarians will make every effort to be helpful and will happily engage you in conversation.  They have a great sense of humor and love to laugh.  We found that the younger people love Western culture and are curious about the U.S.

Cigarette smoking and drinking are quite common here.  Most restaurants have an inside, where smoking is not permitted, and a patio area, where smoking is permitted.  Even in the colder weather the patios always fill up first.

Every city we’ve been to had a multitude of parks and green spaces.  Bulgarians love their parks and spend lots of time there.  Many have tennis courts, soccer fields, playgrounds and more.  The parks, which are well groomed and maintained, are all full of monuments and statutes.  Another nice feature is the pedestrian walkways.  The cities all seem to have wide central boulevards where you can find shops, restaurants, art galleries and so much more.  Cars are never permitted in these areas.  These spaces are very popular during the day and at night.

There are thousands of stray dogs and cats in the major cities.  Bulgarians seem to treat them like outdoor pets.  They caress them, they feed them and they care for them.  The Government catches, neuters, vaccinates and releases most of the dogs.  It’s harder to do with the cats.  You often see cats waiting patiently near restaurants for handouts.  They seem well behaved and healthy.  Interestingly, we haven’t seen a rodent since we’ve been in the country.  Maybe they’re on to something.

Bulgaria is a spotlessly clean place.  Everywhere you look someone is cleaning something.  Even the public restrooms are clean.  And speaking of restrooms, there are plenty of public restrooms.  Sometimes there is a small fee to use them but it’s worth it.

Not everyone is happy about the fall of Communism.  Under the Communist government there was a large set of free social services.  Wages may have been low and few people had substantial savings but they expected to be taken care of in retirement.  Gone are the days when housing and healthcare were free and there are no more automatic government pensions.  It has been very hard on the older population.

Whereas most of the older people speak Russian the younger generation all learn English in school and most are fairly accomplished.  Unlike what you might expect they speak American English and use American slang.  The younger generation seems very modern and is very proud to have a democratic government.  They are entrepreneurial and crave Western culture.  Today Bulgaria is a member of both the European Union and NATO.  It’s likely that as the younger generation comes into its own Bulgaria will become more and more Westernized.

We’ve read many articles on Bulgarian food.  It’s often described as being bold, flavorful and well seasoned.  We’re going to have to take exception with those opinions.  Bulgarians eat a lot of potatoes, cabbage, pork, pizza, vegetables and phyllo dough stuffed with just about anything but never seem to use any sort of seasonings – not even salt and pepper.  By the seacoast we’ve had a lot of fresh seafood and it’s also prepared very plainly.  Bulgarians love sour flavors and they’ll pickle just about anything.  They enjoy sour yogurt drinks and their local cheeses (simply called “White” and “Yellow”) are rather pungent.  For the most part we’ve stuck to imported cheeses.

Bulgaria has some of the oldest settlements on the continent.  Being at the crossroads between the Middle East and Western Europe it has a rich history that spans many cultures including the Thracians, Greeks, Romans and Ottomans. The people here are very knowledgable and proud of their culture and are eager for visitors to appreciate it.  Many cities and towns highlight their history and showcase their archeological past.  The country itself is large and varied.  It extends from the Danube River in the West to the Black Sea in the East.  The mountain ranges are perfect for skiing in the Winter and hiking in the Summer.  The cities along the Black Sea are some of Europe’s favorite summertime resort areas.  Your dollar will go further in Bulgaria than just about any place we can think of.

That’s Bulgaria in a nutshell.  We’ve gotten to see a good portion of the country and it’s been a great ride.  We’re very happy that we stopped in for a visit.

So Long Plovdiv

Our time in Plovdiv has come to an end.  It’s been a great three weeks and we’ve enjoyed every minute of it.  It’s a charming city with a full and rich history.  As a matter of fact it’s the oldest city in Europe.  We’re moving on to Burgas, which is on the Black Sea.

If you ever get to Plovdiv here’s some of the things we think you shouldn’t miss…

  1. Free Plovdiv Tour
  2. The Roman Theater
  3. The Stadium of Philippopolis
  4. The ruins on Nebet Tepe
  5. The Old Town district
  6. Youth Hill
  7. The Archeological Museum
  8. The Ethnographic Museum
  9. The Dzhumaya Mosque
  10. The Pedestrian Walkway in Town Center
  11. Tzar Simeon Garden
  12. Assen’s Fortress
  13. Bochkovo Monastery
  14. Pavaj (Resturant)
  15. Rahat Tepe Restaurant
  16. Croatoan Coffee House
  17. The Monkey House (Coffee House)
  18. Turkish Coffee and Pastry Shop “Dzhumaya”

We’ve Gone Walkabout

If you’ve been reading our blog you know that we append how much we walked at the end of each day.  We’ve been curious to know how much mileage we’ve covered these past months so we put together a fancy spreadsheet that can calculate various statistics by city and/or country.  Here are just a few facts and figures…

[table id=1 /]

You’d think we’d have worn out a pair or two of sneakers by now but our first pair are still going strong (they are, however, definitely showing signs of wear and tear).  At this rate we’ll cover about 2,000 miles in a year.  Not bad for fat, old and lazy city dwellers.

As an aside, a while back we heard of this app called, “Achievement”.  Supposedly it pays you to do healthily things.  Based on the description and how much we walk we expected to each get paid $10.00 about once a month.  That’s not bad for doing nothing more than we normally would.  Why do they pay you – because when you sign up you tell them all kinds of personal information about yourself (it’s mandatory) and they sell that information to companies in health related industries.

Well, it’s been about three months, we’ve walked almost 600 miles and still we’re just one quarter of the way to getting our $10.00.  At this rate we’ll get paid around Thanksgiving.  According to their website you can earn more points by exercising in a gym or riding a bike but according to many of the reviews I’ve read that doesn’t really help much.  Basically, in our opinion, it’s a crock.

In conclusion: Caveat Emptor (see, being in Italy for three months really did expand our vocabulary 😉).

Arrivederci Roma

Our time in Rome has come to an end.  It’s been a great three months and we’ve enjoyed every minute of it.  We’d love to stay in Italy but since we were refused a Visa we’ll have to get out of the Schengen area for 90 days before being able to come back to most of the EU countries.

If you ever get to Rome here’s some of the things we think you shouldn’t miss…

  1. Best Catacomb: Saint Sebastian (Appia Antica Park)
  2. Best Necropolis: Saint Peter (Vatican City)
  3. Best Museums: Vatican (Vatican City), Borghese (Borghese Park) and Capitoline (Capitoline Hill)
  4. Best Palazzos: Doria-Pamphili and Colonna (Both are Near Piazza Venezia)
  5. Best Gelato: Ciucculà (Near The Pantheon)
  6. Best Cappuccino: Polveriera (Near Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli)
  7. Best Budget Restaurant: Carlo Menta (Trastevere District)
  8. Best Scenic Overlooks: Giardino degli Aranci (Aventine Hill), Terrazza del Pincio (above Piazza del Popolo) and Janiculum Hill (Near Faro degli Italiani d’Argentina)
  9. Best Churches besides the four Major Basilicas (you must see these too): Basilica di Santa Prassede (near Mary Major), San Luigi dei Francesi (near Piazza Navona), Santa Maria Sopra La Minerva (near The Pantheon), Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri (near Piazza del Republica) and Basilica San Vitale (on Via Nazionale)

During our stay we learned a lot about this society.  In no particular order here are a few of the observations that we’ve made…

  1. There is no such thing as a schedule.  Any published timetable is really just a suggestion.
  2. All restaurants, including small mom and pop pizza stores, make everything entirely from scratch.  There are no ‘Sysco’ trucks that deliver prepared foods here.  The food ranges from terrific to wonderful.
  3. Smoking is still very popular in Roman society.
  4. Romans uses military time.  Personally, we prefer it.
  5. Latin is everywhere.  Even on modern buildings and monuments the inscriptions are written in Latin.
  6. When exasperated they really do say, ‘Mama Mia’.
  7. Peas are really good here.  They’re firm and sweet.  Even Deborah likes them.
  8. Roman’s eat lunch and dinner later than 12:00 and 17:00 respectively.  Many restaurants will not be fully prepared to serve at those times.  14:00 and 19:00 are much better times for non-tourist centric restaurants.
  9. American style shopping malls don’t exist.  Large department stores are few and far between.
  10. Many common items like vitamins and aspirin are only available in drug stores.  The prices are insanely high.
  11. Much of Rome’s economy is based on tourism.
  12. Beware of ripoffs.  Besides the well known street hustlers and pickpockets store owners and taxi drivers have been known to take advantage of unsuspecting tourists.  You have to be on guard.  We’ve managed to avoid any issues.
  13. Most of Rome observes the siesta.  Many churches, restaurants, shops, etc. are closed from 14:00 to 16:00 every day and most everything is closed on Sunday.
  14. Romans cannot deal with words that do not end in a vowel.  Usually they’ll add an ‘AH’ sound at the end of such words.
  15. There is a massive amount of art in the city.  Some of it is in museums.  A great deal of it is in the churches.  Many of the palaces of great families like Borghese, Colonna and Doria-Pamphili still have incredible private collections.  Fortunately they are open to the public.
  16. Modern Rome has very little in the way cultural arts.  The visual arts are well represented but there is almost a complete lack of performances in music, opera, dance, theater, etc.
  17. Rome is a great place to walk.  Yes, there are many hills and walking on cobblestones can take some getting used to, but most of the main attractions are close enough together to make walking very practical.  In three months we never took a taxi and used the buses only occasionally in futile efforts to save some time.
  18. There’s good gelato and better gelato.  There’s no bad gelato.
  19. Pastries and desserts usually contain very little sugar.  Very few foods are actually sweet.  Roman’s prefer dark chocolate over milk chocolate.
  20. Drinking a cup of coffee while standing at the counter will cost about €1.00.  Drinking that same coffee while seated at a table will cost 2-4 times as much.
  21. It is normal for restaurants to add a service charge to your bill so it is not necessary or usual to leave a tip unless you are in a very expensive restaurant.  If you want to show your appreciation leave a couple of Euros on the table.  American’s find it difficult to leave without tipping.
  22. Bernini is everywhere in Rome.  You can find his hand in sculptures, fountains, paintings, frescos and architecture at every turn.
  23. There are no straight roads in Rome.  Most streets are small, winding labyrinths that twist and turn in many directions.  It’s easy to wind up far from where you intended.

Our next stop is Sofia, Bulgaria.  We plan to stay for six weeks before moving on to Varna, Bulgaria.  We’ve never been to either place before and have no idea how we’re going to deal with the Cyrillic alphabet.  It’s going to be a challenge.

We love seeing your comments on the web site.  Thanks for all the kind words and suggestions.

Just Call Me Sharon

There are quite a few cell phone providers in Italy but the one we went with is called TIM (Telefono Italia Mobile).  TIM is the largest cell service provider in Italy and it has the best coverage.  Because we arrived at our apartment in Rome around 10:30 pm we waited until the next day to sign up for cell phone service.

Before we left for Rome I had researched TIM and found a store in Trastevere that was very close to our apartment.  We arrived a little after 10:00 am and found a helpful sales representative who spoke English well enough to help us.  (In anticipation of our trip we had recently purchased global versions of the new iPhone 8.)  The clerk told us that we could get a monthly plan with 1,000 minutes of phone service and 10 gigs of data for €10.00 per month; SMS texting was not included but since we only use iMessage we didn’t care.  There would also be a one-time charge of €25.00 for the SIM cards.  After we handed over our credit card we were told that subsequent months would be billed automatically.  We explained that we would only be in Italy for three months.  He typed something into the computer and reassured us that everything was setup properly.  He installed the new SIM cards and handed us two cards containing our new phone numbers.  He said that everything should be active within ten minutes.  This was all as expected.  We left the store and continued on our way to find a grocery store.  It was going to be a great first day.

When we got back to our apartment we edited our contacts and put in our new phone numbers.  To test things out we tried to call each other.  Something was wrong.  First of all, we didn’t know how to dial.  We weren’t sure whether we needed to use the country code nor did we know whether we needed to use the city code.  We tried a few combinations and nothing worked.  The Internet service was working just fine so we figured it was just American stupidity.  This all happened on a Friday.  Since that particular TIM store was closed on the weekend we decided to return on Monday and learn what we needed to do.  It didn’t matter – who were we going to call in Italy?

Of course I couldn’t stop thinking about this.  Were we really so unsophisticated that we couldn’t figure out how to dial a phone in another country.  I did some googling and tried calling some numbers but nothing worked.  I went into my phone’s settings and was horrified to find that it displayed a phone number that was different from what was written on the cards we got from TIM.  Deborah’s phone had the same issue.  The number that the phone was displaying was the number hardcoded into the SIM card.  An inspection of the SIM card confirmed this.  This was very weird.  A mystery was at hand.

When we returned to the TIM store the clerk was obviously trying to suppress his laughter at the stupid Americans who didn’t know how to dial.  He took my phone and dialed Deborah’s phone.  The call went through.  It worked the other way around too.  Boy were we embarrassed.  We asked him about the differences in the number written on the card and the number on the SIM.  He didn’t care.  He said our phones worked and that’s all that mattered.  Outside, on the sidewalk, we tried calling one another.  No problem.  Wasn’t this exactly what we did the other day?  We left feeling a little uneasy but at least we could now make phone calls.

A few days later we both started receiving occasional texts from TIM.  Naturally they were written in Italian.  We copied and pasted the messages into google translate and found that they were advertisements for things like furniture and clothing stores.  We ignored them.

Our next visit to TIM came when I decided that I needed to make some international calls.  Our service was not setup for that.  A little wiser and more experienced we decided to try the TIM store in downtown Rome on the Corso, which was not far from Piazza Venezia.  It was a much larger store and we assumed we’d be better served.

I explained that I wanted to dial the US and naturally enough he asked for my phone number.  In response for providing my phone number I received a shocked and amazed look.  It seems that the exchange I provided was not valid for TIM.  Deborah and I exchanged horrified glances.  Finally, after an extended discussion with us and some of the other TIM store people, the clerk took our suggestion and looked up our account on the computer.  The name on the account was not mine.  He informed us that he couldn’t help us and that we might want to return to the store in Trastevere to help sort this all out.  The saga of TIM was only getting worse.  It was time to consider disputing the credit card charge and starting over.  The problem was we were never charged!

During the initial visit we should have been charged for one month of service and one SIM card for each of us for a total cost of about €70.00.  We were never charged.  I don’t think we were passing on our good looks.  What the heck was going on?  Were our ‘real’ phone numbers being used for some illegal drug trafficking or were we unsuspecting pawns in other nefarious enterprises?  Italy is a wonderful place but it’s as corrupt as any third world country with a tin pot dictator.  Our thoughts ran to all sorts of wild ideas.

We returned to the store in Trastevere and had international calling enabled.  I put €20.00 on account to cover these calls.  They had no interest in discussing the name on the account nor the discrepancy in phone numbers.  We decided not to mention that we had never been charged.  I wound up making about €13.00 worth of international calls.  I was told that the remaining credit could be used toward my next month’s bill.

That afternoon I created an account on TIM’s web site.  All that was required was for me to give them my email address and my phone number (navigating a web site that is only in Italian was a bit of a challenge).  Want to know the name on the account?  You guessed it – Sharon!

If you thought that was the end of the story then you are an optimist.  Soon after Deborah and I got text messages from TIM telling us that our accounts had run out of money.  If we didn’t recharge soon our service would be terminated?  This was shocking.  We had paid for the entire month.  How was this possible?  We decided to try a different TIM store.  This one was also on the Corso but it was close to Piazza del Popolo.  On the way we started talking seriously about dropping TIM and signing up with Vodaphone; could they be any worse?

We showed the clerk the texts we received.  He asked for our phone numbers which initiated the same conversation about our phone numbers having an invalid exchange.  Eventually the clerk decided to ignore this issue and investigate.  He called TIM customer service and found out that those advertisements we had been receiving were draining our account.  The monthly charge of €10.00 does not actually pay for the month.  TIM treats that  €10.00 as an account credit and pro-rates your payments on a daily basis.  If you use any other services, that €10.00 will not last for the entire month.  What a great way to do business!  The clerk turned off the advertisements and credited our accounts as if nothing ever happened.  What can go wrong next?

Soon we received a new set of texts from TIM stating that it was time to recharge our account and if we didn’t our service would be terminated.  A full month had not passed.  What new horror was about to be inflicted upon us?  We happened to be near Termini Station when we got these new notices so we decided to visit the TIM store there.

We found out two new and interesting pieces of information.  First, TIM will not automatically charge your credit card each month.  You have to go to the store and recharge you phone in person (or use their web site).  Second: the €10.00 charge is not for a month – it is for 28 days.  We each paid our €10.00 and were on our way.

Soon after I got another message about my account running out of money.  How was that possible?  I had just paid for a new month.  This meant another trip back to Piazza del Popolo; we were running out of TIM stores to use and this one seemed the best choice.  Again the clerk called TIM customer service and discovered that I had been signed up for a voice mail notification system (I’m still not really sure what it was) and that it was siphoning funds from my account.  We had the clerk turn off all optional services from both of our accounts but he was unable to refund me the amount that had been used.  I paid an additional €5.00 to fix things.  It was just graft and corruption.

All of that was several weeks ago.  We’re not going to be in the country much longer so we’re hoping that we won’t be hearing from TIM again.  We may not have paid that €70.00 but we consider that we paid for it in aggravation.

We’ve decided to chalk all of this up to experience and have learned a few things…

  1. Make sure the phone number you get matches what’s on the SIM card (duh!)
  2. Insure that all optional services are turned off.
  3. Know how long the billing cycle is.
  4. Understand how your phone account is paid for each month.

Our next stop is Bulgaria.  We’ll be getting new SIM cards and new service providers.  Wish us luck!

Best Restaurants in Rome

There are a million restaurants in Rome.  The food ranges from good, to better to great.  There’s no bad food in Rome!  While we haven’t eaten in every restaurant in the city we do have a few favorites that we’d like to share with you (in no particular order).  We’ve been to most of these restaurants many times.

It should be noted that all restaurants in Rome prepare all their dishes each day on the premises from scratch.  By law the menu must indicate any item that was previously frozen.

1. Carlo Menta on 

(Pizza con Fungi)

2. Art Café 

3. Restaurant Colosseum “Luzzi” 

4. Polveriera Via della Polveriera, 18.  This is just down the street from Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli.  The cappuccino here is the best in the city (it’s the best foam).  Unlike anywhere else you can get a small, medium or large.   Don’t forget to try their pastry stuffed with Nutella – yum!  In additional to their regular menu they have daily specials.  An enormous plate of roasted chicken with a side of peas cost €7.00.  A plate of pork loin with rosemary potatoes can be had for the same price.  The owner is a real character – I think I’m now considered his cousin.

(Daily Special: Roasted Chicken with Peas.  I wonder who took a bite of it?)

5. Caffè Canova – Tadolini 

(Salad with Smoked Salmon)

(Cioccolato Caldo)

6. Hotel Alexandra Via Vittorio Veneto, 18.  This restaurant, which is near Piazza Barberini, is in front of the hotel of the same name.  This area is very touristy so the prices are much higher but they serve some of the best food we’ve had (we stayed in this hotel in 2016).  The lasagna is amazing.  The carbonara, a speciality of Rome, is a close second.  The meat dishes are wonderful.  Do not leave without trying their panna cotta for dessert.  Main courses range from €15.00 – €25.00.

7. Salotto Palatino Via dei Cerchi, 75.  This place is also near the Circus Maxius.  Mom is in the back cooking and Pop is the waiter.  You can listen to live piano music while sitting on the veranda overlooking the circus.  Several times a week they have a buffet which includes pastas, meats and vegetables all freshly prepared.  A large plate costs about €8.00.  You tell Mom what you want and she serves it up right in front of you.  Mom doesn’t speak English so we have no idea of what we actually consumed.  Make sure you try the pot roast (don’t know what they call it) and the eggplant.

Restaurant owners pack as many tables as possible into the space available.  The tables are small and close together.  You really get to know your neighbors.  Meals are served in a leisurely fashion and it’s normal to sit for quite a while.  Waiters will be surprised if you don’t drink coffee after your meal.  You will need to ask for your check.

A service charge is normally added to the bill so it’s not necessary to tip.  If you wish to leave something extra then a couple of Euros is sufficient.  In touristy areas some waiters may try to trick you into leaving an American style tip so be on your guard.

So, the next time you’re in Rome why don’t you try one of these places and let us know what you think.  We’d love to hear your recommendations too.  Mangia!