Wednesday, October 17
Our choice of busses from Pula to Zadar was limited so we booked an 11:00 am. By car the trip should take about four hours but on the bus it was going to take almost seven. It was going to be a long day.
In the morning we walked down to the market and bought a couple of sandwiches for lunch. We expected the bus to make some stops along the way where we could get something to eat but figured we could get something better and cheaper in Pula.
When we arrived in Pula we took a taxi from the station to our apartment. The taxi had a meter and the cost turned out to be about $11.00. Considering that the distance was about one mile that seemed very high. For the trip back to the bus station this morning we booked an Uber. The cost was about $4.50. As much as we don’t like using Uber we’ve found that it is generally the lowest cost option.
For the most part the bus hugged the coast for the entire trip which meant narrow winding mountainous roads the entire way. Our view of the coastline alternated between deep blue seas, soaring mountains and breathtaking vistas. If we had to endure a long trip this was the way to go. In addition to the numerous pickups along the way we made three 10-15 stops. The last one, two hours before we got to Zadar, had no public bathrooms. Most of the passengers used the facilities at a local restaurant but were required to buy something. We bought a small bottle of Coke for $3.50. The bus company should have planned their stops better.
The old town of Zadar is situated on a peninsula that juts into the sea. Access from our apartment, just two blocks away, is via a long narrow footbridge which crosses one of several marinas.
We unpacked and headed over to a Kaufland supermarket. Many of the cities we’ve visited have had a Kaufland but this is the first that there’s been one close enough to patronize. Based on their commercials we expected them to have a great selection of produce, meats and cheeses.
The store was a large, warehouse style market similar to what you might find at a BJ’s or Sam’s Club. They had a nice selection of goods but we didn’t find their prices or quality to be anything special. We were a bit tired so we just stocked up on a few of the essentials and decided to come back the next day after we explored the town.
Distance walked: 3.5 miles
Thursday, October 18
Zadar is the oldest continuously inhabited city in Croatia. It’s history goes back to the Stone Age. Starting around 59 BC it became part of the Roman Empire. After Rome fell it became part of the Byzantine Empire. Control passed back and forth between several rulers until, in 1202, it was conquered by the Venetians. Control passed back and forth between Venice and several other rulers until 1918 when it became part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. In 1920 the Treaty of Rapallo ceded control to the Kingdom of Italy. During World War II the city was controlled by Germany and afterwards became part of Communist Yugoslavia. As of October 1991 Croatia has been an independent country. Historically Zadar had been the capital of the Dalmatian Region.
Fun Fact: Dalmatian dogs originated in the Dalmatian region of Croatia. When we asked someone why we hadn’t seen any they replied that the Dalmatian dogs have become too expensive.
Personal Observation: Croatia is a very dog friendly place. Everyone seems to have dogs and they take them everywhere they go – including restaurants and cafes. One of the most popular breeds seems to be Golden Retrievers. Enough said!
We started the day by taking a turn around the old city. It’s surrounded by water on three sides. Everywhere you look you can see boats and marinas. It’s truly a nautical paradise. It was hard to pull ourselves away from the view but eventually we decided to take in a few of the sights.
(View of Old City from Bridge)
First we stopped by the Franciscan Monastery of Saint Michael. It’s a pretty church with a somewhat plain interior and baroque style altars. Next we walked around some of the old fortifications. The old town is surrounded by high walls and several ornate gates. These items are all listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. We saw the square with five wells which were created inside the city walls by the Venetians as part of an effort to protect the town from the Turks in the 1600s. We also walked through the area that was the Roman Forum in ancient times. Most of the area is in ruins. It is said that the forum sustained heavy damage in World War II. Nearby is the Church of Saint Donatus and the Church of Saint Anastsia.
(Church of Saint Donatus and the Church of Saint Anastsia Bell Tower)
We visited the Church of Saint Donatus which dates from the 9th century when it was named The Church of the Holy Trinity. The central core is the only part of the church complex to survive. During ancient times it served as the Temple of Jupiter. The interior has the characteristic round shape that is most often associated with such temples. Cost of admission: 20 KN / $3.25 per person.
(Church of Saint Donatus)
For lunch we grabbed some pizza from a street vendor and ate over by the waterfront. (They call a slice of pizza a “Pizza Cut”.) We had a great time watching the large variety of boats coming and going. There were ferries, fishing boats, tourist boats, sailboats and motorboats criss-crossing everywhere. It was a bright sunny day with warm temperates and a lovely breeze. It’s hard to think of a nicer place to spend an afternoon.
On our way home we stopped in one of the souvenir shops. Something in the window had caught our eye. It was a cherry flavored liqueur that is made from Dalmatian Maraska cherries and is only produced in Zadar (Maraska cherries are a type of sour Morello cherry). There were several varieties having different levels of alcohol. The clerk offered us some samples and we willingly accepted. We tried one with 17% alcohol and one with 32%. We both liked one with the higher alcohol level better. It was thick and sweet and had a strong cherry flavor. The name of the liqueur is Maraschino. In spite of the higher alcohol it was smooth and had little to no bite or burn. We bought a small bottle to take home. It cost just over $3.00.
(Maraschino)
Distance walked: 5.9 miles