Mostar

Wednesday, November 7

We took a 9:00 am bus from Split to Mostar.  It was our first foray into Bosnia and Herzegovina.  The bus company required us to pay 3 EUROs for each of our two bags (in touristy places prices are often quoted in EUROs to make it easier for travelers to understand the costs but the money is almost always collected in the local currency).  We gave them 20 KN and they gave us €0.50 change.  We’ve never seen that before.

The bus ride was a short 4.5 hours.  We ambled down the coastline along narrow winding roads.  On one side were steep barefaced mountains and on the other side was the ever beautiful coastline.  When we got near the town of Opuzen⁩ we noticed thousands of orange trees laden with fruit.  A few minutes later the bus stopped along the road.  It didn’t look like a bus stop and no passengers got on or off.  We joked that we’d stopped at one of the many roadside stands for some fresh fruit.  Sure enough, we saw the driver standing at the stand purchasing a bag of oranges.  As he stepped back on to the bus he ripped the bag open and handed them out to the passengers.  What a treat!  The oranges smelled wonderful, peeled easily and were bursting with flavor and juice.  We’ll remember that experience for a long time.  Traveling is a never-ending series of surprises.

When we got to the Croatian border the driver collected our passports and gave them to a border crossing agent who stamped them.  We drove a few feet more down the road and the driver got off to speak with a Bosnian border agent.  He returned very quickly and redistributed the passports to the passengers.  There was no new stamp.  It was very disappointing.

The bus got into Mostar about 15 minutes early and we walked the one mile distance to our new apartment.  We found it near the river in a court that looked like a scene from one of the those end of the world movies.  We later learned that the court had been bombed during the war of the 1990s because one of the buildings belonged to the Bosnian military.  All of the buildings in the court had obviously sustained damage; some of them have been repaired or rebuilt but the damage was still apparent.

The name Mostar literally translates as Guardian of the Bridge.  During the 400 years under which the town was occupied by the Turks a single bridge was built over the Neretva River.  Mostar was at the center of a series of important trading routes connecting Eastern and Western markets and merchants had to pay a toll in order to cross from one side to another.  The revenue made the Turks very wealthy.  Turkish troops were stationed at both ends of the bridge to insure orderly operations.  The bridge, named Stari Most, which literally translates as Old Bridge, has stood since the 16th century and is considered an outstanding example of Islamic architecture.

During the Balkan wars of the 1990s the bridge collapsed when it was heavily damaged by Serbian forces.  After the war the Bosnians, under the auspices of UNESCO, rebuilt the bridge using funds that had been donated from all over the world.  It was reconstructed to look exactly as it had before the war. The bridge was reopened in 2004 in an elaborate ceremony that included the UK’s Prince Charles.  It has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is one the country’s most recognized landmarks and a major tourist attraction.

The old town appears as if time stopped in the middle ages. The winding streets are paved with river rocks that have been worn smooth over time.  The streets that lead up to the bridge, where the bazaars would have been, are now lined with shops selling all sorts of items that have been produced in the region.  Jewelry and decorative items made from silver and copper are very popular.  Of course there are the usual shops selling paintings from local artists and cheap tourist trinkets.

The bridge itself is in the shape of a high arch and extends about 65 feet above the river.  Because of the steep slope there are raised treads every 12 inches or so to help with footing.  It must have been difficult for horses and wagons to make their way across.

The West approach to the bridge is crowded with restaurants and cafes.  We had dinner at a place called Šadrvan.  Deborah ordered cevapi and I ordered the Bosnian schnitzel (deep fried veal rolled with ham and cheese).  Both were excellent.  The total cost was about 35 DM / $21.00.  This was a nice meal in a fancy restaurant in the touristy part of town.  It looks like we’re back to very reasonable prices once again.  We’re really going to like Bosnia!

(Cevapi with Ajvar and Kaymak for Dinner)

By the time we finished eating dinner the sun had set and all of the bridges and buildings were lit.  We walked over to one of the bridges South of Stari Most and took some pictures.

(Stari Most)

Afterwards we went to a cafe for coffee.  We tried to order a Bosnian Coffee and a Turkish Coffee but the barista explained to us (in perfect English) that they were effectively the same thing and that both were, in fact, actually slight variations of Greek Coffee.  We had read about the (slight) differences between the two and had heard that Bosnians take that difference very seriously.  In the end we got two Bosnian coffees which came with two pieces of Turkish Delight (this is fairly typical).  The coffee was similar to Turkish coffees we’d had before.  As expected it was very strong but we were surprised when it was also smooth and had absolutely no bitterness.  By now we’ve learned that you’re NOT supposed to drink the grounds.

We tried to pay for the coffees with the local currency called BAM (Bosnian Converted Marks which are usually abbreviated as KM) but they didn’t want them.  They asked if we had EUROs.  We didn’t have any with us.  Then they asked for Dollars.  Again, we didn’t have any with us.  Finally, they took our KM but, since they didn’t have any KM of their own, they gave us change in EUROs.  We’ve never seen a place that wouldn’t accept their own country’s currency for payment.

Distance walked: 6.3 miles

Thursday, November 8

Normally on our first day in a new town we would have gone grocery shopping but since we were only going to be in Mostar for a very short time we decided we’d just eat out three times a day.  For breakfast we headed over to one of the nearby restaurants in the old town district called Urban Grill.  We arrived at 8:00 am and were the only customers there.  Deborah ordered a cheese omelette and I ordered eggs over-easy with sausages.  Both plates came with cucumbers, tomatoes and sour cream.  We also got a basket of a freshly made hearty rye bread.  It’s hard to impress when doing eggs for breakfast but the food was really quite good.  The cost was 20.50 KM / $12.00.  There was no issue with currencies because we paid with a credit card.

At 10:00 am we met the free tour at the Spanish Square north of the old town. The tour consisted of three people: Deborah, the tour guide and me.  A third person had registered, and we waited for them for about 10 minutes, but they never showed up so we had a private tour.  Ivan, our guide, setup the free tour in Mostar about four years ago and is the only one performing this service.  There are several paid tours available but we were surprised to learn that there was only one free tour.  Mostar is a very popular tourist destination and could probably support several.

Ivan had some interesting background information to share.  We saw quite a few buildings that had been bombed in the 1990s.  Many are still standing but are nothing but hollow shells consisting of stone walls.  A small number of historically significant buildings are just starting to be restored.  Money is tight.  Bosnia is not a wealthy country and any industries that Mostar had were destroyed in the war.  Outside of the tourist trade there are few opportunities these days.

During the latter part of the 19th century Mostar was a protectorate of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.  There are quite a few buildings from that period.  They are easy to spot as their style is quite different from the predominant Eastern/Medieval style buildings.

The city is littered with mosques.  Many of them are from the Ottoman period with several over 500 years old.  Quite a few were heavily damaged in the war and most have been restored.  The country, which is split into 10 Cantons,  is divided evenly between Catholics, Muslims and Eastern Orthodox.  Most Cantons have a dominate ethnic makeup and each ethnicity has its own regional government.  There is also a single national government in Sarajevo.  Before the war Mostar had an intermarriage rate of over 30% and all ethnic groups lived together in harmony.

Ivan had a packet of photos that showed various buildings before and after the war.  It was easy to see the toll that the fighting had taken.  It was very sad indeed.

The most important thing that we learned during the tour was about a local pastry called hurmasice – and the best place to get them: Aldi 2.  They’re a cross between a biscuit and a cake, made with a combination of white flour and semolina, and had a consistency similar to corn muffins.  They are drenched in a sugary syrup.

(Hurmasice and Hazelnut Mousse)

It was a beautifully sunny day when we arrived at the recommended coffee shop.  We wanted to sit outside but found no empty tables on the patio.  Deborah figured that we would have to settle for an inside table but I had other ideas.  I noticed that one of the waitresses was about to make up a new table in an empty spot for a family that had just arrived.  I asked if I could do likewise and she nodded.  There were several spare tables on the far side of the patio and she started dragging one across the pavement.  It made a terrible noise.  I started to pick another up and was warned that they were very heavy.  It was a bit heavy but I made it across the patio without dropping it.  I’d do anything to avoid making more of that horrible dragging noise.  After depositing the table in a Deborah approved spot I came back and carried the waitress’ table to a place she indicated.  After that we got great service.

We ordered a hurmasice and another fabulous looking pastry that turned out to be hazelnut mousse covered in white chocolate along with two cappuccinos. When the bill came the total was “9.00” and there was an “E” next to each individual item.  Based on our previous experience with the local currency we suspected that this meant we were being charged in EUROs but it turned out it was in fact denominated in KM.  Total cost: 9 KM / $4.80.  We paid with a credit card.  This was one of the least expensive cafes we’ve been to and the food, not to mention the service, was great!  We had gotten to the cafe around 12:30 pm so this snack was destined to stand in as our lunch.

With bellies full of caffeine and sugar we decided to visit the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque.  Since entering Bosnia Deborah has been carrying a scarf to facilitate entry into the mosques.  Women are required to cover their heads and hide all of their hair.  This mosque dates from 1617.  In front of the Mosque is a small courtyard where we found a decagon shaped fountain.  These fountains are commonly found in and around mosques and allow the worshippers to perform the Wudo, the ritual washing, before prayer.  The ritual consists of washing the hands, mouth, nostrils, arms, head and feet with water.

The interior of the mosque was one large room.  In typical style it had a domed ceiling with stained glass windows, white walls and brightly colored decorations.  There was also access to a long, narrow, steep set of stone steps that led to the top of the minaret.  We’d climbed many church bell towers over the years but had never climbed a minaret.  We jumped at the opportunity (at least I did, Deborah always prefers to avoid long staircases whenever possible).  From the top we had a magnificent 360 degree view of the entire town and surrounding countryside and snapped quite a few photos.  The cost to see the Mosque was 3 KM per person and there was a charge of 6 KM to climb the minaret.  Cash only.  Again, I got change in EUROs!

(Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque)

Loudspeakers have been installed atop all of the minarets in town.  Five times a day, starting at dawn, the call to prayer can be heard all over town.  Often more than one mosque will be broadcasting at a time.  It can make for some interesting harmonies.

Next we walked south, passed the Stari Most, to another bridge from which we planned to take pictures of the town.  We’d already taken some nighttime photos from that place and wanted some daytime ones to go along with them.  Finally, around 5:30 pm, we headed back into the old town for some dinner.

(Stari Most and Old Town)

For dinner we had some traditional Balkan food at a restaurant called Hindin Han.  Like many places in town it was crawling with cats – in this case kittens – that like to keep the customers company.  Deborah is somewhat allergic to cats so we had to keep shooing them away; it really wasn’t a big deal.

We ordered a cevapi (quickly becoming our new favorite food) with ajvar and kaymak and a plescavita that was stuffed with cheese.  Both came with some fresh vegetables and fries.  The portions were enormous.  We should have ordered just one and shared it.  The food was so good is was a shame to leave some of it behind on our plates (that doesn’t happen very often).  The cost: 22 KM / $14.00.  Credit cards accepted.

Tomorrow we leave for Sarajevo.

Distance walked: 8.4 miles