We spent a little over a week in Bosnia and Herzegovina and split our time between the cities of Mostar and Sarajevo. The country was under the rule of the Ottoman Empire for over 400 years and the character of the cities still reflect their influence.
The old town of Mostar is rather small and can easily be seen in a day. There’s a huge number of mosques which seem to give it an exotic air. The main attraction is Stari Most (Old Bridge) which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The town suffered terribly during the war of independence in the 1990s and has not yet fully recovered. Still, it’s a really interesting place and definitely worth a visit.
Here’s our must do list for Mostar…
- Walk the Stari Most. The Old Bridge was the source of wealth during the Middle Ages as travelers had to pay a tax to cross.
- See the Crooked Bridge. It’s a smaller version of Stari Most and was created as a proof of concept.
- Visit the Koski Mehmed Paša Mosque. For a great view of the area climb the minaret (they charge 3 KM / $1.75 per person).
- Wander around Spanish Square. See Sniper Tower and other buildings that were bombed during the war.
- Enjoy the shops in the old town. They sell all sorts of local handmade crafts.
- Have Bosnian Coffee at Stari Grad cafe. They serve it with Turkish Delight.
- Have pastries at Aldi II. Try the Hurmasice, it’s a local favorite.
- Go to Šadrvan or Hindin Han and have Cevapi or Plescavita.
(Stari Most)
Sarajevo was much more varied than we expected. There are three distinct parts of the city. There’s the old Ottoman/Turkish section, the Austro-Hungarian section and the modern section. We tend to gravitate towards anything Turkish and so spent most of our time in that part of town.
The town was heavily damaged during the war of independence in the 1990s but most everything has been rebuilt and restored. It was interesting to relive one of the most pivotal events in history: the assassination of the Archduke Ferdinand of Austria. We were interested in seeing the village from the 1984 Olympics but apparently there is nothing worth seeing anymore.
It should be noted that prices in Bosnia are very reasonable compared to Croatia. You money goes a lot further.
Here’s our must do list for Sarajevo…
- See Latin Bridge / The Assassination Museum. Learn about the assassination of the Archduke Ferdinand.
- Visit Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque. It dates from 1531 and is one of the largest in Bosnia.
- Gaze upon the Clock Tower. It’s the only lunar clock tower in the world.
- Visit the Sarajevo Cathedral. It is part of the Austro-Hungarian part of town.
- Search for Sarajevo Roses. Bomb scars from the war of independence that have been filled in with red resin.
- Climb the Eastern hills and see the White Bastion and the Yellow Fortress. You’ll get to see some residential neighborhoods and enjoy fantastic views of the valley.
- Trek to the National Museum and see the Sarajevo Haggadah from 1350. It can only be seen on Tuesdays and Thursdays.
- Tour the Town Hall. It’s a beautiful building. There is a fee.
- Eat Turkish Halva at Carigrad. It’s made with butter and molasses and has the consistency of fudge.
- Have Bosnian Coffee at Caffe Bar Sebilj. Be sure to dip your sugar cube in the coffee, take a small bite and drink with the sugar in your mouth.
- Eat Burek or Zeljanica at Buregdžinica Bosna. It’s the best we’ve ever had.
(Turkish Halva)
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