Exploring Nafplio

Thursday, January 24

We spent some time down at the waterfront in Nafplio taking photos.  The area is incredibly picturesque.  There is a path that goes around the harbor and  we walked the entire length admiring the view and taking pictures.  High overhead is the Venetian built Palamidi Fortress.  It’s a huge complex that extends partially down the hill and completely dominates the town.  To the west, on the next hilltop, is Nafplio’s oldest castle called Acronafplia.  Of course, what self-respecting town wouldn’t have a third castle?  Bourtzi Castle is a small, fairytale-like structure that sits on a tiny island in the harbor.  It’s stunningly beautiful.  Our intent for the day was to visit Acronafplia.

(Fairytale Bourtzi Castle)

We wondered the back streets in old town looking for some way to get up to the castle.  We had read that there was a cable car that would take you to the top but couldn’t find any mention of it anywhere.  We did a Google search and found a web site that described how to walk up there but those directions were obviously not correct.  Finally we asked a shopkeeper.  He pointed down the street and said we could walk or take a taxi; there was no cable car.  We headed in the direction that he had pointed.

Along the way we found the Church of Saint Spyridon.  It was on our list of things to hunt down.  It is well known as the location that the first governor of the modern Greek State, Ioannis Kapodistrias, was assassinated on September 27, 1931.  While entering the church for Sunday services we was shot and stabbed (talk about overkill).  The church, of the Greek Orthodox denomination, is not very large but is very nicely decorated.  It sports a marble iconostasis and some lovely frescos.

(Dome of Church of Saint Spyridon)

Eventually we found a set of very steep steps that led up the hill.  We passed through a stone gate which led to a road that took us to the main part of the fortress.  It was a fairly easy climb.  There is no charge to enter the castle.

The castle originated in the Byzantine period sometime around 1,000 AD.  It was occupied by the French in the 14th Century and then the Venetians in the 15th Century.  It changed hands between the Ottomans and the Venetians several times until 1822.  In 1827 Nafplio was established as the first capital of the newly formed Greek State.  Aside from the impressive walls the buildings, except for the clock tower, are now ruins.  There are informational signs around the hill that tell of the various occupations and the once proud buildings.  Today the fortress is a popular tourist destination.  The views of the surrounding area are magnificent.

(Acronafplia)

We had a late lunch at a restaurant that we found a recommendation for called  Alaloum.  We ordered an appetizer consisting of toasted bread with olive oil, oregano and salt.  The waiter told us of several specials of the day and we ordered from that list: cabbage leaves stuffed with meat and rice and fried calamari made from freshly caught fish.  Neither dish was particularly good.  When we were getting ready for the check the waiter brought several tables a complimentary order of sliced apples and honey.  The apples weren’t really ripe.  We’ll be looking for better elsewhere.

Distance walked: 8.6 miles

Friday, January 25

This morning we went to The Archaeological Museum of Nafplio.  It contains relics that have been found in the area.  The artifacts were presented in chronological order.  One of the very first exhibits was an earthen hearth that was dated between 32,000-21,000 BC.  That is the correct number of zeros.  We were impressed.

As we were rounding the first aisle a man, who obviously worked there, approached us and told us about the suit of armor that we were coming to.  We already knew quite a bit about it.  It’s the only complete suit of Mycenaean armor that has ever been found.  It dates from the 15th Century BC, is made entirely of bronze and was found in a tomb in the nearby city of Dendra.  It’s the museum’s premier exhibit!

(Mycenaean Armor)

He must have realized that we liked this stuff so he walked us back to an artifact that we’d already passed and explained to us that it was also the only one of its kind ever found.  It was a “cooler” that was probably used to keep wine at a suitable temperature.  It dated from 2700-2200 BC, was made of clay and had been found in the nearby city of Tiryns.  We had seen it but it hadn’t made an impression on us.  Now we were absolutely fascinated.  Before leaving he wanted to make sure that we didn’t miss the two films that were available in one of the rooms upstairs.  He reassured us that one of the films was in English with Greek subtitles and the other was in Greek with English subtitles.  His enthusiasm was absolutely infectious.

(Ancient Cooler – Wine Inside and Water Outside)

The films were about the discovery and excavation of the armor.  It was interesting to see what a big deal this was in the town.  When the archeologists were about to bring the armor up from the ground the church bells were rung and the people from the town came to see what it was all about.  Just as the credits from the second film were running the man reappeared and explained that the people weren’t sure of what they’d be seeing but knew it was important so they all showed up wearing their Sunday best.  It’s little things like that we’ll remember with a smile years from now.

The museum is fairly small but had some lovely pieces.  There was a very nice collection of pottery that was in fine condition.  Some dated back as far as 2700 BC.  We particularly liked the frescos that had been salvaged from the Palace of Tiryns.  They were colorful and told nice stories even though we saw only medium sized fragments.

For lunch we went to another restaurant that we’d seen a recommendation for called Mitato Grill Restaurant.  They were said to have the best souvlaki in town.  We tried the chicken and the lamb.  Neither were particularly good.  They lacked any real seasoning or flavor.  We usually do better hunting out places to eat on our own.

Distance walked: 3.8 miles